Guided expedition to Khan Tengri Peak 2020

Expedition program with an approximate, suggested ascension itinerary:

Route description:

The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, requires some straightforward scrambling for the most part, and has steep, rocky steps interspersed with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as a vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful. From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6,000 m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. Traversing the Col will lead you to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepens. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6,200m, 6,400m and 6,700m. Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are replaced at the beginning of each summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections up to 6,700m. Here you can head to the right across snow slopes and reach a steep rock step of about 20m which is severe in standard. Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then heads to the right again to exit onto a short, steep knife-edged snow ridge of about 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground. Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod. The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.