In 2019 we will run 2 expeditions to great Khan Tengri peak: via the Northern ridge (26 July-15 August 2019) and via the Western ridge (4-24 August 2-19).
Undoubtedly, the crown jewel of the Tien Shan Mountains is the wonderful peak, Khan Tengri. Khan Tengri Peak, which is located in a northern, remote part of these beautiful mountains, is the second highest peak in Kyrgyzstan. The people of Kyrgyzstan call the Tien Shan “The Mountains of Heaven”. It was members of a Soviet expedition that first conquered the summit of Khan Tengri Peak in 1931, via the West Ridge and West Col. Soviet teams have climbed the majority of Khan Tengri’s faces and ridges since then. One of the most classical routes we offer starts from the south; the Western Col can be reached from the Southern Inylchek Glacier. This route is very popular among mountaineers. To climb Peak Khan Tengri, 3 or 4 camps will be used taking weather conditions into consideration at the time of the tour.
Expedition program with an approximate, suggested ascension itinerary:
Arrival in Bishkek
Arrive in Bishkek then transfer to a hotel. Overnight in Bishkek.
Bishkek - Karkara Base Camp
Transfer from Bishkek to Karkara (460 km). Accommodation in double tents. Overnight.
Karkara Base Camp - South or North Inylchek Base Camp
Helicopter flight Karkara BC – South or North Inylchek BC (4000 m asl).
Acclimatization and ascending program
Acclimatization and ascending program
South orNorth Inylchek BC – Karkara BC - Bishkek
Helicopter flight South or North Inylchek BC – Karkara BC. Transfer to Bishkek. Accommodation in the hotel.
Free day in Bishkek
Free day in Bishkek.
Bishkek - Manas international airport
Transfer to the airport. Departure from Bishkek.
The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, requires some straightforward scrambling for the most part, and has steep, rocky steps interspersed with snow patches. There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as a vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful. From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6,000 m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. Traversing the Col will lead you to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepens. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6,200m, 6,400m and 6,700m. Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are replaced at the beginning of each summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections up to 6,700m. Here you can head to the right across snow slopes and reach a steep rock step of about 20m which is severe in standard. Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then heads to the right again to exit onto a short, steep knife-edged snow ridge of about 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground. Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod. The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.
Please note: porter services are not included in the cost of the program and should be paid additionally. Porter services:
- BC – Camp 1 – 4 Euro/per kg
- Camp 1 – Camp 2 – 8 Euro/per kg
- Camp 2 – Camp 3 – 8 Euro/per kg
Note: The cost of porter services is calculated for both ascending and descending. Porters service should be booked before program.
Additional service in BC:
International phone calls – 4 USD/min
List of needed personal equipment:
1. Backpack – 85 liters
2. Sleeping bag – 1
3. Sleeping pad – 1
4. Harness – 1
5. Carbines – 4
6. Jumar – 1
7. Crampons – 1.
8. Repshnur (6-7 mm) – 5 m.
9. Ice axe – 1
10. Sun glasses – 1 or 2
11. Torch (headlamp) -1 + set of spare batteries
12. Ice screw – 2
13. Folding knife – 1
14. Down jacket/parka – 1
15. Gortex: pants, jacket – 1 suit
16. Polartec: jacket 200 -1; pants – 1
17. Thermal underwear – 1 suit
18. Polartec 100 – 1 suit (jacket, pants)
19. Polartec gloves – 1
20. Overmitts – 1(+ 1 windproof)
21. Warm hat – 1
22. Balaclava –1
23. Warm socks –2 pairs
26. Sun protection crèam
27. Figure-8 descender – 1
28. Telescopic Sticks (poles) – 1
29. Avalanche shovel –1
30. Trekking boots
31. Altitude boots